Cut. Stitch. Wear. Wow! This fashionable scarf can be easily Done in a Day, and once done, gives you the flexibility to wear it tied, looped, wrapped, and more. It would make a lovely last-minute gift idea.

We show you how a serger makes the finishing fast and easy. Our choice was the Janome AirThread 2000D serger, which we love for its One Push Air Threading System, the 8-piece feed dog configuration, and a built-in one-step converter that makes changing from 3-thread to 2-thread applications fast and easy. It’s received multiple awards for its design.

Could you use a standard sewing machine and an overcast stitch? You could with extra testing, stabilization, and experimentation with thread weights. But for this project, a serger really is your best option, and it gives you a window into why adding a serger to your sewing space can be a great way to save time and give your seams a professional quality finish. Check out our article reviewing the Top Five Reasons to Own a Serger. There are lots of choices to consider, and a quick trip to your local Janome dealer to try out a few models can do a lot to dispel any fears about threads, loopers, and knives.

In the meantime, let’s create a super cool scarf. Not only are there numerous ways to wear it, the scarf is also reversible – so numerous options squared. We used an athletic lycra knit in a fun paisley print for one side, then paired that with a soft stretch velvet in a coordinating solid color for the opposite side. The dark solid color really shows off the serger stitch when worn with that side facing out.

As always, the fabric combinations are up to you, but do look for knits that – even with two layers – twist and drape with ease. The “feel or hand” of the fabrics should be liquid and soft. Final fabric selections will also likely depend on the time of year you’re making your scarf. We originally designed the project as we rolled into the chilly days of Fall and Winter so the soft nap of a stretch velvet was a cozy choice.

The key to expediency and success is to TEST. Yes, this suggestion is a bit of a broken record here at S4H, but taking a bit of time at the start of your project to sort through the best tension settings, thread choices, stitch selections, etc. can make completing your project easier and the final result more gratifying. We’ve included pictures and notes below to show the various tests we did to settle on our final two-thread overedge stitch in a heavier YLI Monet Decorative Thread. Our Testing Notes come before the actual instructions– a nod to their importance; if you’re a serger pro, you can certainly skip these and scroll down to the project steps.

There is a free pattern to download to get the correct gentle curve to the back of the scarf as well as the points at the front tails. Many knits are 60” and more in width; if you find one that is, it means you could carefully nest two triangles side by side (one facing up, one facing down) and cut both the front and back from within ⅝ of a yard. This would be efficient if you want the front and back of your scarf to be the same or if you are planning to make more than one scarf … as we mentioned above, it is a great gift idea!

Our thanks again for our friends at Janome America for their support of this project and many of our other most popular projects. To find out more about the amazing Janome machines, visit their website, follow them on social media, and – best of all – visit a local dealer for an in-person test stitch.

When flat, the Serged Knit Triangle Scarf finishes at approximately 40” x 18”.

Sewing Tools You Need

INSERT AirThread: https://www.janome.com/product/airthread-2000d/

• Serger/Overlock machine
• Hax1 SP 90/14 needle; our choice for the thicker decorative thread we selected
  NOTE: Sergers require special needles; they do not use standard sewing machine needles.

Fabric and Other Supplies

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• ⅝ yard of 45″+ wide light-mid weight polyester knit in a print
• ⅝ yard of 45″+ wide light-mid weight panne velvet knit (stretch velvet) in a solid color to coordinate with your print
• TWO spools of your selected specialty thread; we used YLI Monet decorative thread – see our testing notes below
• See-through ruler
• Fabric pen or pencil
• Iron and ironing board
• Pressing cloth; best when working with knits and napped fabrics
• Scissors
• Rotary cutter and mat
• Seam gauge
• Seam ripper
• Straight pins
• Yarn needle; used to finish the ends of the serger stitches
• Seam sealant; optional for the ends of the stitching
• Yarn Winder; optional, but it can really help to create serger-friendly balls of thicker decorative thread, woolly nylon, and yarn. We simply wrapped onto a 4” section cut from a paper towel roll! Innovation in action!!
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Getting Started and Pattern Download

Testing Notes

1. A serger (aka overlock machine in some areas of the world – we will use the name “serger” throughout our notes and instructions) is the machine of choice for sewing knit fabrics such as the two knits featured in our Triangle Scarf.
2. The most common sergers use 3 or 4 threads to create a selection of stitches. Less common, but still a great alternative, is the addition of a 2-thread option. These stitches are excellent for finishing seams, producing rolled hems on delicate fabrics, and creating seams in sportswear. The resulting seams have both stretch and durability.
3. A standard 4-thread serger stitch creates a finished seam of about ¼“, but there are a number of stitch choices to choose from when finishing edges. In addition, there are many different threads that can be used in a serger. Basically, if it will go through the eye of the loopers, it will work!
4. We kicked off our testing with a selection of four threads: standard serger thread, woolly nylon, decorative thread (YLI Monet), and a lightweight tapestry yarn.
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5. Added to the thread variables were the stitch options. We started with a wide 3-thread stitch, experimenting with stitch tensions and stitch length to create a handful of samples using the different thread types. We took careful notes of the settings that resulted in the best stitch.
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6. Finally, we made samples of the 2-thread options. This set up uses a spreader to disable the upper looper. It is commonly used for a 2-thread flatlock stitch, a delicate rolled hem, or a smoothly wrapped overedge finish. The last option is the one we chose for our Triangle Scarf, using YLI Monet in both the lower looper and through the needle.
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7. As always, final fabric and thread choices are up to you and will vary based on the thickness of the knits you choose as well as just your own personal preferences. Key things to remember: test-test-test… and have fun experimenting!

Set up for a 2-thread overedge stitch

1. As mentioned above, we used the Janome AirThread 2000D for our Triangle Scarf. As with the their sewing and embroidery machines, Janome is well known for the quality and ease of use of their sergers. This serger can even thread itself with a puff of air!
2. As described in the testing notes above, we opted for a specialty thread. This required some special handling and special tools, which are included with the AirThread.
3. First, the spreader must be moved into place to disable the upper looper.
4. To thread the lower looper, we followed a more standard series of steps for threading loopers. Instead of using air to thread the looper, we used a looper threader. This is a long, very thin flexible wire with a loop at one end that is more easily threaded with specialty threads.
5. The wire is inserted into the channel for threading the looper.
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6. The decorative thread is threaded through the loop. When the opposite end of the wire is visible at the end of the looper, use tweezers to grab the end and pull it through, pulling the thread along with it.
   INSERT 3289-Photo 106 – blur out most of the shot and just put a circle around the the tweezers pulling — that small circle is the only part in focus
7. The next step is to thread the needle. Because the decorative thread we chose is a bit thicker than standard serger thread, we changed our needle to a Hax1 SP 90/14 needle. For our selected stitch, we are using a single needle in the left position. Again because of our heavier thread, instead of using the built-in needle threader, we used the looper threader. The thin flexible wire goes right through the needle, taking the thread with it.
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8. Referring to your own testing we know you remembered to do… adjust the serger’s settings. Our final settings with the YLI Monet were: Left Needle: 3.00, Upper Looper: disengaged, Lower Looper: 1.00; Stitch Length 2.5.
9. To start a chain, place both thread ends under the foot, pulling them to the left. Lower the foot, and start the machine, pulling gently on the thread ends until you have a 3 to 4” thread chain. You are ready!
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Pattern download and cutting fabrics

1. Download and print out the PDF pattern sheets that include the five pieces of the main triangle shape, which is designed to be cut on the fold.
   IMPORTANT: This PDF is FOUR 8½” x 11″ sheets. You must print the PDF file at 100%. Make sure your printer is set up for “borderless printing” as some of the pages do print at nearly edge-to-edge. DO NOT SCALE to fit the page. There is a guide rule on the page so you can confirm your final printout is to scale. Print horizontally (landscape).
   INSERT PDF PATTERN
2. Cut out each pattern piece along the solid line. Aligning the arrow notches printed on the pieces, assemble A-E to create the full triangle pattern, which you will use to cut the front and back layers on the fold.
   INSERT 3289-Photo 109-crop in just a bit along the left side to cut off the non-pointy end
3. Fold the print polyester knit in half, matching the edges all around.
4. Pin the assembled pattern into place along the fold.
5. Cut out the triangle.
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6. Repeat to cut a matching triangle from the stretch velvet.
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At Your Serger

1. Place the print polyester triangle wrong side up and flat on your work surface.
2. Place the stretch velvet triangle wrong side down on top – so, wrong sides together. All edges of both layers should be flush.
3. Although pins are not usually recommended with a serger, it is still the best way to keep the layers of slippery knit aligned. We serged with the velvet side facing up, so our pins were placed parallel to the edge, with the point of the pins in the counter clockwise direction, making them easy to remove.
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4. Our pattern is a large triangle with pointed ends at each side and a gentle curve at the back. To serge the two layers together, start in the middle of one short side. As you stitch the layers together, the goal is to trim just a sliver from the edge. Serge slowly so you have plenty of time to remove ALL the pins as you go.
5. As you approach the back curve, slow your stitching even a bit more. Like a sewing machine, you can stop with your needle down and lift the foot slightly to straighten the layers if need be. Continue to serge around the curve, stopping and adjusting the layers as you go.
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6. Here’s a view of the pretty curve from the stretch velvet site. The decorative thread really pops!
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7. Continue along the second short side to the first pointed corner.
8. Unlike a sewing machine where you can raise the presser foot and pivot with the needle in the fabric, to turn a corner with a serger, you must raise both the foot and the needle. Adjust the fabric so the next side is aligned with the foot and the fabric starts right at the needle. Start slowly, removing pins as needed.
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9. Serge the long side, pivot at the second corner point, and continue serging until you come up to your start. Overlap the stitching for about an inch, then pull the fabric away from the foot, sharply to the left. Leave a 3- 4” tail, and cut.
10. Use a yarn needle to work the tail of threads into the serged stitches.
11. Secure with a dab of seam sealant, then trim the ends flush once the seam sealant has dried.

Project Design: Anne Adams
Sample Creation and Serger Expertise: Michele Mishler